Stuck in Sherman Oaks and in dire need of a caffeine hit? Unexcited about the prospect of Starbucks or a similarly sterile cafe? Badabim, Bada Bean--here's just the place.

Take a seat on one of Bada Bean's mismatched couches or plant yourself at a wooden table. Then relax. The coffee drinks are infused with two shots of the blessedly strong Illy espresso, so anything you pick will perk you up.

Considering that owner Lenny Mesi hasn't had a day off since October, he's pretty amicable. And if the food is far from four-star, the attitude certainly makes up for it. Bada Bean is a Cheers-like place where everybody knows your name, and, if they don't, they will probably ask. It's a small operation and the staff are old friends, giving the place a relaxed, informal atmosphere.

We began our after-work wind-down with a vanilla dream mocha. A tall glass of cold creamy heaven, the concoction left us drooling. Chocoholics should go for the syrupy blended iced mocha (note to insomniacs: try the decaf version--you won't taste any difference).

Once you've fed your caffeine habit, move on to a bowl of minestrone or a plate of bruschetta. The soup's homemade, and, though the vegetables are a bit too crunchy, it's a solid choice. The bruschetta is a bit limp, but delicious, spiced up with a sweep of Italian dressing. Sandwiches offer another good option. The ingredients are very fresh and all the meats have been imported from Italy. Non-meat-eaters should stick to the bruschetta--the vegetarian sandwich is pretty bland. Carnivores, on the other hand, will applaud number seven, a sandwich stacked high with capocolla, Genoa salami and provolone and served with a creamy red potato salad or a sweet cold pasta. Unfortunately, the bread on all the sandwiches is terrible; if Wonder made a roll, this would be it. (Mesi explained that his bakery of choice just closed, and he's having a 'bread crisis.')

At the moment, there's no kitchen, so Mesi is limited in what he can serve. Desserts are plentiful--carrot cake, fruit pies, cheesecake, biscotti--but brought in from local bakeries. He plans to add a stone pizza oven and a grill within the next few months.

Bread aside, Bada Bean's main liability is the decor. It's a dramatic space--high ceilings, chandeliers, sconces and wood tables left from the previous incarnation--but sorely under-utilized. The place is adorned with little more than a handful of Mafia movie posters and shelves stacked with tins of Illy espresso. The cafe will be adding beer and wine to the menu in September, and Mesi hopes to turn his humble establishment into a nighttime mecca for live music and comedy (entertainment is already scheduled four nights a week). He has the personality to make it work, but he needs to create a distinctive look.

For now, Bada Bean is more a coffee joint with food than a full-fledged bistro. But the staff's friendliness is already attracting a loyal clientele and a bigger menu should help. Even if Mesi doesn't change a thing, Bada Bean is a find--a pocket of genuine warmth in a city often marked by pretense and anonymity. --Danielle Kwatinetz